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Bar manager Jared Davis expertly crafted a perfect Corpse Reviver and paired wines with our plates.It was clear, as the meal unfolded, how much this restaurant has settled in to excellence over the past 11 years.But now I’m motivated to try their larger location in Northern Liberties, where they churn their own pistachio and basil gelati.

The frozen garnish works wonders, though, with “Fire & Ice,” a cone-shaped glass of king crab cocktail tossed in zesty miso mayo that takes on a layer of complexity with a savory sorbet made from spiced carrots.

Watermelon gazpacho tingles with the smoky warmth of paprika oil on top.

Dumplings stuffed with slow-braised oxtail come over kohlrabi puree and a mysterious dark “J-1 sauce” infused with black garlic, stout beer, and truffles.

What began as a supper club in 2006 run by a precocious 14-year-old chef named Skylar Bird has evolved into full-scale American BYOB that’s become a hard-to-book local favorite for intimate, affordable dinners just off New Hope’s tourist strip.

The prix-fixe menu format delivers well-cooked renditions of familiar dishes with smart little tweaks — maple-glazed salmon, sweet lump crab cakes with mango salsa, soulful cider-glazed pork shank over carrot puree — that are a solid bargain as part of a three-course menu for .

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